Development of Anti-wrinkle lotion containing Artocarpus Lakoocha heartwood extract

Abstract

The aims of this study were to assess the physicochemical stability of Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood extract (Puag-Haad) under various conditions and to evaluate its anti-wrinkle activity in female volunteers. Initial stability test revealed that citrate buffer pH 5.5 was able to maintain the original color and provided the highest content of oxyresveratrol of 91.77% in Puag- Haad solution. Addition of 0.02% butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) alone could provide sufficient chemical stabilization at 45ºC for 12 weeks. Stability was further enhanced by a combination of 0.02% BHA and 0.02% sodium metabisulfite, which could stabilize both the color and content of oxyresveratrol in Puag-Haad solution kept at 30 ºC for 24 weeks. Eighty-six female volunteers subsequently participated in an 8-week parallel clinical trial with self-control to evaluate the antiwrinkle efficacy of solutions containing Puag-Haad (0.10 and 0.25%) in comparison with 0.10% epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and 0.10% vitamin C. It was found that 0.10% Puag-Haad solution was the most effective, with the roughness values as measured by Visioscan® becoming significantly with 95% confidence interval lower than its self-control after only 2 weeks of application and remained significant until the end of the study. This was followed by 0.25% Puag-Haad and 0.10% EGCG solutions, which demonstrated similar anti-wrinkling efficacy, whereas 0.10% vitamin C was the least effective. Thus, 0.10% Puag-Haad and 0.10% EGCG were formulated into lotion for further clinical study using similar protocol. The skin elasticity, capacitance (hydration) and whitening extent were also measured. It was found that 0.10% Puag- Haad lotion gave faster anti-wrinkle efficacy than 0.10% EGCG lotion, with the roughness values becoming significantly lower than its self-control after 6 weeks as compared to 8 weeks for EGCG. The extent of wrinkle improvement by Puag-Haad lotion was 5.78 - 5.93%. Both the Puag-Haad and EGCG lotions did not improve the skin elasticity but Puag-Haad lotion had an added benefit of skin whitening activity. Skin hydration also improved in both lotions due to the moisturizing effect of the lotion base. Considering its multi-functional activities, the inexpensive and easily available A. lakoocha extract or Puag-Haad has a very promising potential for use as a safe and effective anti-wrinkle/skin whitening ingredient in cosmetic preparations.