Method development for determination of alpha- and beta-arbutins in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography

Abstract

Skin whitening products are now among the most desire cosmetic for beautycare customers. In the past, hydroquinone was used as a whitening agent but it was banned due to its severe effects to human skin. Since then, there have been other alternative whitening agents available in the market that included arbutins. Betaarbutin has been widely used since it is a natural product whereas alpha-arbutin is synthetic. Both are skin whitening active but alpha-arbutin offers higher stability and more efficiency, acts faster than beta-arbutin, so it is more expensive. For health consumer protection, it is necessary to develop a reliable method to assure that the cosmetic product contain such arbutin as it is claimed. This work aims to develop a method for simultaneous determination of alpha- and beta-arbutin in cosmetic products by using UPLC[superscript TM]. The method was developed on Waters ACQUITY UPLC[superscript TM] system with UV/VIS spectrometric detection at 283 nm. Several columns were investigated and gradient elution profile of 0.1% acetic acid and methanol as a mobile phase were optimized. The analysis time was less than 6 min. The linear working ranges of both arbutins were 2-30 mug/mL (R[superscript 2] =0.9999). The %recoveries of spiked synthetic cosmetics in various matrices (cream, lotion and gel) were between 98-102% with %RSD less than 0.6. Developed method offered better resolution, speed and sensitivity than a typical HPLC analysis method