Abstract:
The purpose of this thesis is to examine and discuss the internal and external factors which evidently influenced the changes of women's costumes in Chiange Mai society between 1879-1933. This thesis also attempts to examine the changing economy of Chiange Mai society including various factors which contributes to these changes. Since costumes are reflected through its society, economy, politics and roles of women, the integration and method involving the combinations of these factors are studied in detail. In was found that although many changes have occurred to the costumes of Chiang Mai women, such as the introduction of western blouses. The traditional pha sin, or tube-skirt remained unchanged and untouched by the 'new' values during the phase of these changes. The changes occurred as a result from factors examined in this thesis. The internal factors include the growing numbers of foreign merchants and Chiang Mai's economy. The external factors which derived from the influences of the Central Palace, as well as the "centralization" plan which consequently affected the reformation of the educational system and the expansion of the northern line railway. Together with thest factors Chao Dara-Rasamee who played a significant part of a "cultural leader" was examined. Chao Dara-Rasamee became a dominant figure who contributed to the survival of northern cultures today. As a cultural leader she tried to integrate Chiang Mai's traditional cultures and Western cultures together. This could be clearly seen in the case of women's costumes, which Chao Dara-Rasamee attempted to preserved traditional pha sin and introduced Western blouses as a sign of "civilization" to the society of Chiang Mai.
