Constructing Thainess within international food space : Thai gastronomy in five-star hotels in Bangkok

Abstract

This thesis aims at studying the characteristics of Thai gastronomy and analyzing the process of constructing "Thainess" through Thai gastronomy in Thai restaurants located in five-star hotels in Bangkok. Four Thai restaurants in five-star hotels in central Bangkok district (CBD) are selected as case studies. They are 1) Celadon at The Sukhothai Hotel Bangkok, 2) Nahm at The Metropolitan Hotel Bangkok, 3) Sala Rim Naam at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Bangkok and 4) Spice Market at The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. Each of them has its own prominent characteristics and specialization. This research uses a qualitative research methodology through observation and participant observation in the hotel’s culinary practices, interviewing key informants, as well as collecting documents concerning the hotel’s history and culinary management. The research applies Stuart Hall’s concept of the "circuit of culture" as the framework in the analysis of the process of Thai gastronomy. The circuit of culture is composed of five factors: representation, identity, production, consumption and regulation. The research findings reveal that "Thainess" is constructed through three characteristics: firstly, through physical settings and an enhanced atmosphere with Thai art and architecture, both traditional and contemporary; secondly, through a Thai style of service by personnel with politeness and hospitality; and thirdly, through culinary practices. It is also found that Thai values, wisdom and Thai ways of life are selected and presented as the characteristics of Thai gastronomy in each restaurant. It is found that each restaurant selects the identity of Thai food and presents Thainess differently through various components related to Thai gastronomy. Production and the consumption of Thai food is based on the relations, expectations, values and standards mutually agreed between the "hosts" and "guests." The production process also concerns Thai culinary regulations and, given the fact that these Thai restaurants are in an international food space, international standard must then be implemented together with Thainess in the Thai food space. It is further found that the process of constructing meanings and Thainess is very dynamic since these Thai restaurants are situated in the context of globalization, thus, "Thainess" in Thai gastronomy is internationally negotiated.